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Violin roundup

The Best Violins for the Money

The Stentor Student II for beginners, the Eastman VL305 for committed intermediates, and the second-hand specialist market for the best value at any budget above £200.

The Best Violins for the Money

These are specific violin recommendations at each level, based on what consistently offers the best combination of playability, tone and durability for the price. The most important caveat applies at every level: the difference between individual instruments of the same model can be significant, and any violin above £300 is worth having a luthier or teacher evaluate before purchase.

Best Beginner Violin: Stentor Student II

The Stentor Student II is the most widely recommended beginner violin in the UK for good reason: it is consistently set up to a playable standard before leaving the distributor, it holds tune reasonably well, and the tonewoods are sufficient for a first year of learning. It is available as a complete outfit with bow and case in all fractional sizes. At £100–£140, it is not the cheapest option, but it is reliably the best value — cheaper alternatives frequently arrive unplayable, requiring luthier work that negates the price saving. The Stentor remains the default recommendation from most UK string teachers for absolute beginners.

Best Intermediate Violin: Eastman VL305

The Eastman VL305 sits at the point where the quality of hand-finishing becomes clearly audible. Eastman's workshop instruments are factory-made but hand-graduated and hand-fitted, and the tonewoods are individually selected with noticeably more care than student-level production. The VL305 at £350–£450 is the instrument most commonly recommended by teachers for students who have confirmed commitment to the study and are moving past Grade 3. The improved response to dynamics and bow pressure makes it genuinely easier to develop technique than on a student instrument, which is the purpose of upgrading.

Best Advanced Student Violin: Scott Cao STV-017

The Scott Cao STV-017 is a workshop violin at the £700–£900 level, hand-made in Scott Cao's workshop with high-grade tonewoods and meticulous fitting. It is the level at which the violin begins to respond to subtle changes in bow technique — small variations in bow speed, contact point and weight produce clearly different tonal results, which supports the development of expressive playing. Players preparing for Grade 6 and above, or for music college auditions, benefit from an instrument at this level. Having the instrument independently assessed by a teacher or luthier before purchase is strongly recommended.

Best Value Second-Hand Violin: Specialist Dealer Instruments

At any budget above £200, the second-hand market offers significantly better playing quality than new instruments at the same price. The caveat is buying from a reputable specialist string dealer (rather than a general classified listing) who has assessed, set up and guaranteed the condition of the instrument. Specialist UK dealers including Stringers of Edinburgh, Bridgewood and Neitzert (London) and David Rattray (various) regularly stock ex-student and workshop instruments that have been professionally restored and set up to a high standard. A second-hand violin at £250 from a reputable dealer will outplay a new one at the same price almost without exception. For a full decision guide, see the buyer's guide.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is a violin outfit worth buying, or should I buy separately?

For a first purchase, an outfit (instrument, bow and case together) from a reputable specialist is the lower-effort and usually lower-cost option. The components are matched in quality and the whole is set up as a unit. Buying components separately risks mismatching quality levels — a good instrument with a poor bow performs below its potential, and vice versa. Separate components make more sense at intermediate level and above, when specific bow and instrument qualities are worth seeking independently.

What is a good violin for an adult returning to playing?

An adult returning to playing after a significant gap typically needs a better instrument than an absolute beginner, because technique comes back faster than the instrument quality improves. The Eastman VL305 or similar mid-range workshop instrument at £350–£500 is the appropriate starting point — it responds to dynamics and bow pressure in a way a student instrument does not. Returning players should also consider restringing whatever instrument they have before buying a new one, as old strings significantly depress playability.

Does the brand matter?

At beginner level, brand consistency (Stentor, Eastman, Karl Höfner) ensures reliable quality control, which matters more than the specific name. At intermediate and advanced level, individual instruments matter more than brands — two instruments from the same maker can sound and play quite differently. At any level above £400, the advice to try before buying (or to have a teacher assess the instrument on your behalf) is more important than brand loyalty.

Should I buy carbon fibre or pernambuco bows?

At beginner level, a quality carbon fibre bow (from £60–£100) outperforms the cheap brazilwood bows that typically accompany student outfits. Carbon fibre bows are robust, consistent and do not warp with humidity changes. At intermediate level, the choice between carbon fibre and pernambuco becomes more nuanced — high-grade carbon fibre (from £150) is competitive with pernambuco bows at similar prices. At advanced level, pernambuco remains preferred for its superior flex and responsiveness, though exceptional carbon fibre bows exist at professional prices.

How do I know if a second-hand instrument has been damaged?

Look for cracks in the top or back, particularly near the f-holes and at the edges. Cracks that have been repaired (visible as fine lines, often with small cleats visible inside through the f-holes) are less concerning than open cracks. Check the neck angle — hold the instrument up and sight along the fingerboard towards the bridge; the fingerboard should aim for the top of the bridge. A sunken neck (where the fingerboard points below the bridge) indicates the neck needs resetting, which is a significant repair. Have a specialist assess any significant second-hand purchase.

What accessories do I need beyond the instrument and bow?

The essential accessories are: a case (ideally included in the outfit), rosin (essential for bow hair grip), a shoulder rest (recommended for most players), an electronic clip-on tuner, and a cleaning cloth. Optional but useful: a mute (for quiet practice), spare strings (particularly the E string, which breaks more frequently), and a humidifier for the case if practising in a centrally heated room in winter. The humidifier is particularly important for older or higher-quality instruments, which are more susceptible to humidity-related cracking.

About Hannah Roberts

Hannah grew up in the shadow of York Minster, where the sound of choirs and early music was simply part of the air. That grounding gave her a deep love of harmony, voices and the older end of the repertoire. She writes about classical, choral and the history behind the music.

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