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Mandolin article

Common Mandolin Mistakes to Avoid

Most problems players encounter with a new mandolin come from setup issues, worn strings or technique habits formed early and never corrected. Here is what to watch for.

Most mistakes with a new mandolin are the same ones, made in the same order. The instrument rewards careful attention to the fundamentals — setup, tuning, technique — and suffers visibly when those fundamentals are ignored. Here are the ones that come up most often, and how to avoid them.

Buying the Wrong Type for the Genre

A bowlback classical design is not the right choice for an Irish session; an F-style bluegrass instrument is an odd fit for Italian folk music. The body style does not determine everything about the sound, but it does shape the character of the instrument significantly. Before buying, spend some time with the music you intend to play and note what instruments the players you admire are using. A-style for folk, Celtic and general use; F-style for bluegrass; bowlback for classical and European folk traditions.

Ignoring the Mandolin Setup

The most common reason a new mandolin feels hard to play is poor setup — specifically, action that is too high. Budget instruments especially tend to arrive from the factory with string height well above what makes comfortable playing possible. This is not the instrument's fault and it is not permanent. A luthier can correct the action, nut slots and intonation in an hour for £30–£60, and the result is a mandolin that plays correctly. Spending £150 on an entry-level instrument and then writing it off as unplayable — when a setup would have transformed it — is a common and avoidable waste.

Using Cheap Tuning Machines

Cheap friction or open-gear tuning machines on budget instruments slip, making staying in tune a constant battle. If you are spending more time tuning than playing, the tuners are likely the culprit. Upgrading to enclosed planetary-gear tuning machines is a straightforward modification on most instruments and costs £25–£50. It makes an immediately noticeable difference to how well the instrument holds pitch through a session.

Using the Wrong Pick

A pick that is too thin produces a floppy, imprecise attack that makes clean tremolo impossible and chord articulation vague. A pick that is too heavy creates a harsh, clunky sound with limited dynamics. Most experienced players settle on something in the 0.88mm to 1.5mm range, though preference varies by genre and technique. Experiment with a range of gauges early on rather than defaulting to whatever came with the instrument.

Not Changing Mandolin Strings Often Enough

The brightness that defines the mandolin's character fades quickly with worn strings. Old strings also become increasingly difficult to tune accurately — the intonation deteriorates before the strings actually break. Regular players should change strings every four to six weeks, or sooner if the tone has noticeably dulled. Keeping a spare set to hand and changing them promptly makes a bigger difference to tone than most players expect before they first try it.

Skipping Mandolin Chord Inversions

Players who only learn one voicing of each chord limit themselves unnecessarily. Because the mandolin fretboard is short and the range of each string pair is relatively narrow, learning chord inversions — the same chord in different positions — unlocks a much wider set of accompaniment possibilities. A G major chord at the second fret and a G major chord at the seventh fret have different tonal characters and suit different contexts. Work inversions into practice from an early stage.

Neglecting the Left Hand Position

Fretting with the thumb creeping over the top of the neck — a habit common to self-taught guitarists — restricts reach on the mandolin more than on a guitar. The shorter scale and compact fret spacing require clean, curved left-hand technique, with the thumb behind the neck and the fingers curving onto the strings from above. Poor position shows up quickly in missed notes, string buzzing and difficulty reaching chord shapes. Correct it early, before the habit becomes entrenched.

For a full explanation of how different mandolin types compare, the overview article covers the details. For buying recommendations, the best picks article highlights the standout models at each price point.

The Bottom Line

A well-set-up mandolin with fresh strings and a quality pick is a joy to play. Most of the frustrations players encounter come from setup issues, tuning machine quality or technique habits that formed early and were never corrected. Address these first and the instrument will reward the investment.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does my mandolin feel hard to play even after practice?

The most likely cause is action that is too high — the string height above the fretboard makes fretting physically demanding, regardless of how much you practise. This is a setup issue, not a playing issue. A luthier can lower the action, adjust the nut slots and set the intonation correctly for £30–£60. The improvement in playability is usually immediate and significant.

Why does my mandolin keep going out of tune?

Budget instruments often have cheap friction or open-gear tuning machines that slip, particularly during active playing. Upgrading to enclosed planetary-gear tuners is a straightforward modification that typically costs £25–£50 and solves the problem permanently. New strings also go out of tune frequently as they settle — this is normal and improves after the first week.

How do I know if I need new strings on a mandolin?

If the tone sounds dull or the instrument is harder to tune accurately than usual, the strings are likely due for a change. Old strings lose their bright, cutting character quickly — often within four to six weeks of regular playing. Intonation also deteriorates before strings actually break, so changing them at the first sign of tonal dullness is good practice rather than waste.

Is a thick or thin pick better for mandolin playing?

A medium pick in the 0.88mm to 1mm range is the standard starting point. Thin picks (under 0.73mm) produce an imprecise, floppy attack that makes clean tremolo difficult. Very heavy picks (above 1.5mm) can produce a harsh, uncontrolled tone. Most players settle on a preference through experimentation — buy a selection of gauges and try them with the specific music you are playing.

Should I buy an A-style or F-style mandolin as a beginner?

An A-style is the safer first choice for most beginners. It tends to be more affordable at equivalent quality levels, is lighter and more comfortable for long sessions, and suits the widest range of genres — folk, Celtic, country, singer-songwriter. An F-style makes sense if you are specifically drawn to bluegrass and want an instrument with that aesthetic and character from the start.

What left-hand position is correct for playing the mandolin?

The thumb should sit behind the neck, roughly opposite the first or second finger, and should not creep over the top. The fingers curve onto the strings from above and press close to the frets rather than in the middle of the fret space. This position allows reach across the full fretboard and keeps the fretting clean. Developing it early prevents technique problems that are much harder to correct later.

About Laura Mitchell

Laura found her way into music through the folk sessions of Edinburgh's Old Town, where she learned that a song can hold a room without a single amplifier. A festival city upbringing gave her a taste for everything from fiddle tunes to fringe experiments. She writes about acoustic instruments, folk and the craft of songwriting.

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